or some product has become the center of attention on social media. The speed at which the industry evolves makes it difficult to distinguish between a passing fad and a change that will truly shape the future of the cosmetics industry. However, if we set aside the noise generated by the market and observe the sector with some perspective, it is possible to identify a clear direction. Innovation is no longer simply about incorporating a new ingredient into a formula. Nor is it about launching the next catchy slogan or following the latest trend. The change is much deeper: cosmetics are evolving toward a model in which science, an understanding of skin biology, sustainability, and regulation increasingly influence the development of new products. This change is also driven by a different consumer. Social media has democratized access to information, but it has also multiplied misinformation. Today, it’s common to find hundreds of recommendations for the same routine or ingredient, leading many consumers to seek tools to help them interpret all this information. In this context, artificial intelligence is beginning to play a significant role, facilitating ingredient comparisons, INCI list interpretation, and product recommendations tailored to individual needs. However, this digitalization is also highlighting the value of professional expertise. Dermatologists, pharmacists, and other skincare specialists remain a trusted source for consumers, who increasingly seek to combine immediate access to information with personalized advice. At the same time, consumer expectations are also changing. They are no longer simply looking for effective products, but rather solutions that address a broader range of concerns. In a world marked by a fast pace, uncertainty, and stress, personal care has also become a moment of well-being. Various market studies reflect that self-care continues to gain importance and that stress is increasingly perceived as a factor capable of influencing skin condition. It is no coincidence that concepts such as neurocosmetics, the skin-brain axis, and sensory well-being are beginning to be incorporated into the development of new products. Beyond improving the skin’s appearance, consumers seek sensory experiences that provide well-being, allow them to disconnect, and transform skincare into a small moment of calm within their daily routine. The combination of greater access to information, professional advice, and new expectations is raising the bar for the industry. There is a growing demand for cosmetics backed by scientific evidence and for brands capable of explaining not only what a product contains, but also why it has been formulated that way. This context is driving innovation that is increasingly linked to biology. In fact, many of the ingredients that are generating the most interest today do not originate directly from the cosmetics industry, but from various areas of scientific research. This exchange of knowledge between disciplines is enriching cosmetic development and allowing for the exploration of new applications, always adapted to the regulatory framework and the specific functions of these types of products. Ingredients generating interest Peptides are probably the best example of this evolution. Far from simply acting as active ingredients, new generations of peptides seek to mimic sequences naturally present in the skin to promote specific cell communication processes or contribute to the maintenance of skin structural components. The goal is no longer just to improve the skin’s appearance, but to better understand the biological mechanisms involved and design increasingly specific molecules. Another ingredient generating significant interest is PDRN (polydeoxyribonucleotide). Its origins lie in the field of regenerative medicine, where it began to be studied for its potential role in tissue repair processes. As with other biomedical advances, cosmetic research has adapted this knowledge to the development of new active ingredients for skin care. Spicles represent another innovation that is gaining prominence. These are microstructures of biological origin capable of interacting with the outermost layer of the skin, promoting renewal of the stratum corneum and facilitating the penetration of certain cosmetic ingredients. This dual mechanism of action has driven the development of new formulations that aim to improve the efficacy of active ingredients without resorting to invasive procedures. More recently, the concept of metabolic ingredients is beginning to generate excitement. Molecules related to cellular energy metabolism, such as NAD⁺ precursors, are arousing growing interest due to their potential to promote cellular function and contribute to maintaining healthy skin. Although this is still a developing field, it reflects a clear trend: cosmetic innovation is increasingly focused on ingredients capable of interacting with complex biological processes. But perhaps the most important change lies not in the ingredients themselves, but in how we understand their role within a formulation. For years, innovation seemed to depend on discovering the next star ingredient. Today we know that an active ingredient, 28TEMA CENTRAL I MAIN TOPIC ¿Hacia dónde avanza la innovación cosmética? Where is cosmetic innovation headed? María Matesanz, miembro del Comité Científico de la Sociedad Española de Químicos Cosméticos (SEQC) María Matesanz, member of the Scientific Committee of the Spanish Society of Cosmetic Chemists (SEQC)
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